Pei Wei gives local Asian restaurants run for business
Pei Wei Asian Diner offers a higher quality product for fast food in a sit-down atmosphere.
By Alisha Brown
Skiff Staff

Legends of good Chinese food have leaked down from Dallas since 1996 when P.F. Chang’s opened its first restaurant here in Texas. The Arizona chain of high-class restaurants wafted over Fort Worth last week with the opening of Pei Wei — the take-out or dine-in version of Asian cuisine.

The chain of restaurants — which began 20 years ago in San Francisco, according to the official Web site — is similar to the Panera or Rosa’s Cantina concept — a higher quality product for fast food price in a sit-down atmosphere without the full-service dining experience.

When you walk up to the building you either enter the Dine-In or Take-Away side of the restaurant. Tall light boards showcase the Asian choices before you step up to the counter.

It’s not so much, “Welcome to Whataburger, can I take your order please,” or “Good evening and welcome to Bistro Louise, our specials this evening are ... ” but more “Hello there, can I help you with our menu?”

The appetizer list includes Edamame (ed-uh-mah-meh) — a dish of salted soybean nuggets still in their pods, for $2.75. It’s an incredible protein starter, and since the USDA now recommends that the average adult receive 25g of soy protein a day, one plate is big enough for several friends to get their full dosage. Pei Wei’s most popular appetizer is the $5.25-P.F. Chang version of a lettuce wrap, manager James Chang said.

“Especially among TCU kids, the lettuce wrap sells the most,” he said. “P.F. Chang has a vegetarian version, but we sell the minced chicken one.”

The crab and cream cheese fried wantons aren’t bad either. Jeng said they have more of an American influence.

A symbol next to certain items on the menu tells you which dishes are spicy and which ones can be made vegetarian-friendly.

The noodle and rice bowls are medium priced at $6 to $7 for a full bowl — better than Big Bowl and Ghengis Grill prices, but the customer does not get to choose their own ingredients. The Shrimp with Lobster Bowl — with rice wine garlic sauce, Chinese black beans, white mushrooms, scallions and egg with a choice of white or brown rice — sounded the most appetizing.

The Hoisin Explosion, yes it rhymes, was a plateful of mixed spices and vegetables — from curry and chili paste with sesame seeds over onions, broccoli, red and green peppers, carrots and medium-dried tofu with fluffy brown rice. I, at least, could not put my finger on one dominant flavor.

With dishes like Asian Coconut Curry, Mandarin Kung Pao and Spicy Korean alongside the Hoisin, Jeng said you’re not supposed to be able to label the food, though some dishes are more nationally centered than others.

Vietnamese sauces at the condiment bar sit next to full lemons and peeled mandarins, and soy sauce is on every table. There is Fresca at fountain and drums of vanilla-chai and mandarin-green tea. The beers are only Asian. I recommend the Kirin, but you can get an American soda too.

Pei Wei’s multi-cultural influence on its list of ingredients can be seen in the demeanor of the establishment as well. There were several nationalities and age groups working and dining in Pei Wei, which has only been open four weeks. Nelly Furtado’s “I’m Like A Bird” played right over the clanging of the chefs.

The average customer spends $8 to $9 at Pei Wei, versus $18 to $19 at P.F. Chang’s, according to a Business Week report.

Pei Wei’s nationwide do 35 to 40 percent of their business from take-away, according to the report. In some locations you can order over the Internet, but the Fort Worth restaurant has not gone online.

Jeng said he expects the chain to do well in Fort Worth since there is not another establishment like it in the area.

As far as the Asian cuisine goes, I would definitely pay more for Pei Wei than order delivery from Din Din, but maybe drive the bit further to Dallas to break out the chopsticks at P.F.’s place.